Michigan’s Upper Peninsula: Northern Exposure

Text: James T. Parks • Photography: James T. Parks, Bob Brown

I’ve been curious about Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (aka the U.P.) for a number 
of years. This northern exposure has plummeting wintertime temperatures and lake-effect snow piling high. The U.P. constitutes 29 percent of Michigan’s total landmass, but the unforgiving winter weather explains why only three percent 
of the state’s population lives here year-round. During the moderate summer months, though, this outdoor paradise begs to be explored by motorcycle. 
And we’re here to do just that.

Welcome to Yooperland

Full-time residents of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula are often referred to “Yoopers,” which is derived from “U.P.-ers.” Crossing over the Straits of Mackinac on the 26,372-foot Mackinac Suspension Bridge, we arrive on the U.P. in St. Ignace (pronounced Saint Igness), MI. Our eight-day adventure begins the next morning with me riding the red 2014 BMW F 800 GS Adventure and wingman Bob Brown on his 2012 BMW R 1200 GS.

We’re anticipating the same spring-like 70-degree weather of yesterday. But when I cast a glance to the west, dark clouds are mustering on the horizon. In partial denial of what may lie ahead, I don my rain top, but not the rain pants. I’m thinking that any shower we might encounter will be light and short. 

Riding west on U.S. 2, we trace the scenic Lake Michigan coastline. Today, however, frothy whitecaps break over turgid waters, attesting to the ferocity of offshore winds. Intensifying raindrops streak horizontally across the road and form pools. Day rapidly turns to night. Shards of lightning dance across the sky, while some arc to the ground in the distance ahead. Visibility shrinks to a few yards. We need immediate shelter, but where? Finally I spot a rest area. We pull in and spend the next hour huddled under roof with a burgeoning group of fellow travelers.

It’s always interesting how a common calamity breaks down barriers to conversation. A couple heading east is now concerned about crossing the Mackinac Bridge in possible high winds and rain. The storm finally abates and we continue. Bob is warm and dry in his one-piece Aerostich riding gear, but I’m soaking wet from the waist down. A hot shower and hot food at day’s end were never more appreciated. 

Clear skies and warmer temperatures greet us on the second day of our U.P. adventure. We ride into Escanaba, take a few photos, and then continue west on 2, journeying deep into mining country. The Iron Mountain Iron Mine, in the 21st century, is mining tourist dollars more than ore. Underground trains transport visitors through 2,600 feet of tunnels that descend 400 feet below ground. We forgo the mine’s deep dive, but enjoy gazing at Big John, the giant-sized miner in the parking lot. 

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For the complete touring article, including facts & information, map(s), and GPS files, please purchase the November/December 2016 back issue.